Here is what a train ride looks like. More tomorrow when we plan to hop on the "hop on hop off" bus in Munchen at 1000.
Here is what a train ride looks like. More tomorrow when we plan to hop on the "hop on hop off" bus in Munchen at 1000.
Up early, 0630, to enjoy a sumptuous breakfast. They had everything you could imagine to eat. Stu did his best to sample some of the dishes.
We walked the river route to old town to hop on the City Tour followed by the Skyline Tour. These tours are offered by the Hop on Hop Off company. For us it is the best way to get an overview of sites we might want to walk to. Frankfurt's buildings are rather new being built in the 90s and still going on today. They say if you come back in a few years you won't recognise Frankfurt.
Each building has a story to tell. One in particular is called the Crown building because the top looks like it has half a crown attached. The crown is heated in winter to prevent ice cicles from forming. As a consequence some birds refuse to migrate. Another building they call the Apple Wine building because it is the shape of the glass that is used to store apple wine. There are 63 national banks and 152 international banks registered here. Frankfurt is the financial center of continental Europe. The 30 museums cover ever subject imaginable, requiring many purposeful days to visit.
Though the two bus tours overlapped in places you couldn't help but appreciate the beautiful planning that goes into constructing a new city out of the ashes of the old.
Between buses we had time to sit down to a splendid lunch I had filet of sole and Stu had cod. Sauces made our day. They were delicious! Unfortunately, the food and beer left us a little drowsy during the second bus ride.
Before leaving to catch the1054 train to Frankfurt, we took an early morning walk along the Rhine River. Another lovely day with a cool morning warming to the 70s. We took a regional train observing the many bicyclists and hikers getting on and off at the many stops over the two hour trip. There is an interesting 300km bike ride you can take that passes through the wineries found along the Rhine. We will spend one full day in Frankfurt before the three hour trip to Munich. The staff at The Bristol Hotel, were very helpful dotting the street map pointing out the walking hi lights of Frankfurt. The Bristol is just a few blocks from the huge train station with 24 tracks side by side. The surging people getting on and off is impressive.
We walked through the old city still repairing itself from the total flattening during World War II. Reconstruction is still going on, after all it is the hub of Germany. The center is a combination of new very upscale shops and tall 200 meter banking and business buildings not intimidating the historical center where they have rebuilt a number of the traditional oztzeile houses.
Today Is a Christian Holiday, The Ascension, so businesses are closed. However, throngs of beer and wine drinking humanity were out in force. Part of our walk along the Rein took us across a bridge covered with padlocks, symbols of remembrance.
Just before arriving back at the Bristol, we found a small and cozy Germany restaurant where we drank beer and ate spaghetti bolanase. A perfect day.
For our last day we chose to visit Cochem's Castle. Cochem is one of many Mosel Valley towns known for its charm. A strenuous uphill walk was necessary. Views from the castle's verandas were straight down 300 feet to the river. After the castle tour we chose a fine pastry shop,Flair, to have lunch before returning to Koblenz. Seating in perfect sunlight, we enjoyed bear, wine, bean soup with bread and a chocolate strawberry cream puff. We walked fast to get the 1218 express back to Koblenz. Here is Joan's description of the castle.
Cochem's Castle is the landmark of this small town and the beautiful Moselle valley. This castle like most was built on a high hill for the purpose of defense. On three sides the enemy had to climb steep hills on the fourth side there are four gates the enemy had to get through. The castle was built in 1000A.D by the Franconian Palatine counts. In 1151 it was seized by the German emperor. It was given to the archbishop of Trier in 1294. In 1689 it was destroyed by the French. It was restored by a rich Berlin merchant 200 years later. In 1942 the owners were forced to sell it to the Reich. Since 1978 it has belonged to the town of Cochem.
We arrived in time for the first tour of the castle. It has been well cared for both inside and out. They have some of the original furnishings. One room has Gothic arches and another has Romanesque crossed arches. The hunting room displayed the heads of animals and tankards used by the monks for their daily consumption of wine which was 11/4 gallons. Secret panels with inside staircases leading to bedrooms above, can you guess the purpose. Spiral staircases that wind the wrong way so aggressors could not use their swords in their right hands. It was a fascinating tour. Though our tour guide spoke in German, she was kind enough to include shorten English descriptions. She told us that in January, she had visited Santa Cruz in California. Small world!
We are very thankful to our dear friends the Nicholls, Ian and Karen, who bicycled this peaceful valley and said it should be part on our travel plans. The train from Koblenz to Trier follows the winding river. Many miles of vineyards clothe the hill side. Bicyclist, barge traffic, campers and many charming villages entertained us both ways.
Trier is known for its Roman ruins. They say it is the center of antiquity in Germany. We visited two basilicas. The first, Basilika Konstantin was like a brick barn with no adornments but a few modern oil paintings on the inside walls. The second, Liebfrauen a gorgeous place with modern stain glass windows. The Porta Nigra is the colossal city gates and the introduction into the past. There are many Roman ruins from baths to an amphitheater built in the second century AD. We stopped for lunch and had a huge bratworst covered with mustard. We opted out of the curry sauce.
Once back in Koblenz, We walked through old town to the Mosel and back. Once again, early to bed
We arrived at the Hotel Hohenstaufer in Koblenz at 1300. It is located within easy walking distance from the train station.
On the plane Joan learned some interesting information about wine. It seems the wines from USA, Australia, New Zealand, Chile and South Africa are called new world wines. They maximise the use of technology. The climate moderate to warm yields riper grapes giving fuller body and lower mineral content. Regional wines are designed according to their region. Some new regions that are growing wine grapes are the Gobi desert. Mumbai, India and the basin of China.
Even though we were upgraded to Business Class, the 10+ hour overnight, non stop flight, plus a over abundance of food and drink left us enervated.
The train station is connected to the airport simplifying the transition to fast surface transportation. Tourist Information informed us of where to activate our Eurail Pass and the appropriate track for the train to Koblenz. Coming from California where the car is the chief method of transportation, we have had very little experience in train travel. It is a little unnerving being sure you have found the correct track and what station you have to transfer at. It is such a relief not to drive. The train from Frankfurt to Koblenz follows the Rhine River with its endless chain of barges powering upriver against a good 4 knot current. The bow wave of the buoys was matched by that of the barges. After checking in to our hotel, we did a walkabout, but had to return to the hotel we are so sleep deprived. We were in bed by 1800.
In our travel planning we invariably turn to Ricksteves.com. For this trip to Europe, we have pick two countries, Germany and Austria to spend a month.
Here is a quick over view, Frankfurt, Koblenz, Munich, Salzburg, Vienna, Rothenburg and back to Frankfurt. We will spend three to six days in each city adventuring within and outside of each.
For lodging we are using our United Air Miles for hotels in Frankfurt, Koblenz, Munich, Rothenburg and, Airbnb for lodging in Salzburg and Vienna where kitchens are available. All are within walking distance from the train station.
Coming from California we are not used to the incredible efficiency and convenience of trains. We have investigated many of the side trips from each city. The first thing we do in each is purchase an upper deck seat on the hop-on-hop off bus. These buses do the best job of introducing the overall history and places we will want to investigate.